PAVEMENT
SONG
All
along the cobblestones by Saint Paul's,
Clippety-clack
the music runs, quick footfalls,
Folk
that go a-hurrying, all on business bent,
They'll
come to us in time, and we are content.
So
we keep our cobble-shop, by Saint Paul's
Hammer-stroke
and wax-thread, chasing up the awls,
Cobbling
is a merry trade, we'll not change with you,
We've
leather good cheap, and all we can do!
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XI
SAINT
CRISPIN'S DAY
HOW
CRISPIN, THE SHOEMAKER'S SON, MADE A SHOE FOR A LITTLE DAMSEL, AND
NEW STREETS IN LONDON
"Rip-rap
— tip-tap
Tick-a-tack — too!
Scarlet leather sewed together —
Thus
we make a shoe!"
— WILLIAM ALLINGHAM.
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LONDON
was a busy town when the long Venetian galleys and the tall ships of
Spain anchored in the Pool of the Thames. Leather and silk and linen
and velvet and broadcloth came to the London wharves, and London
people were busy buying, selling, making and decorating every sort of
apparel, from the girdle to hold a sword to the silken hood and veil
of a lady. And nobody was busier than the men who worked in leather.
Nowadays
we go into a shop and try on shoes made perhaps a thousand miles
away, until we find a pair that will fit. But when Crispin Eyre's
father sold a pair of shoes he had seen those shoes made in his own
shop, under his own eye, and chosen the leather. It might be calfskin
from the yard of a tanner, who bought his hides from the man who had
raised the calf on his farm, or it might be fine soft goatskin out of
a bale from the galleons of Spain. In either case he had to know all
about leather, or he would not succeed in the shoe business. The man
who aspired to be a master shoemaker had to know how to make the
whole shoe. More different kinds of shoes were made in Thomas Eyre's
shop than most shops sell to-day, and as he had begun to use the
hammer and the awl when he was not yet ten years old, he knew how
every kind should be made.
Early
in the morning, before a modern family would be awake, hammers were
going in the shoe-shops tap-tap tick-a-tack tack! Sometimes by the
light of a betty lamp in the early winter evenings the journeymen
would be still at work, drawing the waxed thread carefully and
quickly through the leather. Hand-sewn and made of well-tanned hide,
such a shoe could be mended again and again before it was outworn.
Riding-boots, leather shoes, slippers, sandals, clogs, pattens, shoes
of cloth, silk, morocco, cloth-of-gold, velvet, with soles made of
wood, leather, cork and sometimes even iron, went to and fro in the
shadow of St. Paul's Cathedral, and sooner or later every kind
crossed the threshold of Thomas Eyre's shop. The well-to-do came to
order shoes for themselves, and the wooden-shod and barefoot came to
get the shoes others would wear.
Each
trade kept to its own street, even in those early days. When the
Guilds had multiplied so that each part of each trade had its own
workers, who were not supposed to do anything outside their trade,
the man who made a shoe never mended one, and the cobbler never made
anything. Each trade had its Guild Hall, where the members met for
business councils or holidays, and some of them had their favorite
churches. It was like a very exclusive club. Men and women belonged
to these societies, they made rules about the length of time a man
must work before he could be a master workman, and they took care of
their own poor folk out of a common fund. Each Guild had its patron
saint, connected in some way with the craft it represented. The
especial saint of the shoemakers was St. Crispin, and his day was the
twenty-fifth of October.
The
leather workers were among the most important artisans of London, and
in course of time each branch of the trade had its own Guild Hall.
The cordwainers or leather workers took their name from Cordova in
Spain, famous for its beautiful dyed, stamped, gilded and decorated
leather. The saddlers had their hall, and the lorimers or
harness-makers theirs, and the skinners and leather sellers and
tanners had theirs. London was rather behind some of the cities on
the Continent, however, both in the number and the power of her
guilds. King Henry II. was not over-inclined to favor guilds,
especially in London, for London was too independent, as it was, to
please him. He had observed that when cities grew so strong that they
governed themselves they were quite likely to make trouble for Kings,
and not unnaturally, he felt that he had trouble enough on his hands
as things were without inviting more. If he had allowed it London
would have had a "Commune," as the organization of a
self-governing city was called, long ago.
Crispin
heard this discussed more or less, for all sorts of chattering and
story-telling went on in the shop, and he heard also many stories
which tended to make him think. The popular tales and songs of the
Middle Ages were not by any means always respectful to Kings. The
people understood very well that there were good monarchs and bad
ones, and they were not blind to the reasons for the difference.
The
story that Crispin liked best was the one about his own name, and on
this October day, seated on his low bench beside Simon, the oldest of
his shoemakers, he asked for it again.
"Aye,
I'll warrant," grunted Simon, "an Eyre would be a born
shoemaker, and name him Crispin Eh, lad, what be you after with that
leather?"
Crispin's
fingers were strong, if small, and he was busy with hammer and awl
and waxed thread, making a little shoe.
"Just
a shoe, Simon go on with the story," said the boy, with a
little, shut-mouthed grin. Simon fitted the sole to the boot he was
making and picked up his hammer.
"It
was a long time ago (tap-tap) when the emperor of Rome was a-hunting
down the blessed martyrs, that there were two brothers, Crispin and
Crispian their names were, who lived in Rome and did nothing but
kindness to every one. But there be rascals (trip-trip-trap!) who do
not understand kindness, and ever repay it with evil. One of such a
sort lived in the same street as the two brothers, and secretly ran
to tell the Emperor that they were plotting against his life. Then
privately the wife of this evil-doer came and warned them, for that
they had given her shoes to her feet. So they fled out of the city by
night and came to France and dwelt in Soissons, where the cathedral
now is.
"This
England was a heathen country then, they say, and France not much
better. Before long the king of that kingdom heard of the strangers
and sent for them to know what their business was. When they said
that their business was to teach the people the story of our Lord, he
asked who this lord might be, and whether he was mightier than the
king, or not.
"Then
when the heathen king heard that the Lord of Crispin and Crispian was
more powerful than either King or emperor he had a mind to kill them,
but he was afraid. He asked if they had ever seen a palace finer than
his own, that was made of wood and hung with painted leather, and
they said that there were finer ones in Rome. Then said the king,
'Give me a sign of the greatness of your Lord.' And they asked him
what it should be. And the king said, 'Cover the streets of my city
with leather and you shall go forth unharmed.' Only the rich had any
leather in those parts.
"That
night Crispin and Crispian took the leather hide of their girdles and
made a pair of shoes for the king. And when they came before him in
the morning, they put the shoes upon his feet, the first shoes he had
ever seen, and told him to walk abroad and he would find all the
streets covered with leather."
The
apprentices had been listening, and a laugh went round the shop, as
it always did at that part of the tale.
"Thus
it came to pass," concluded Simon, "that the two brothers
lived at court and taught the king's leather workers how to make
shoes, and that is why Saint Crispin is the friend of shoemakers."
"What
was the name of him who told you the tale, Simon?" Crispin asked
thoughtfully.
"Oh,
he is dead these many years, but his name was Benet, and he came from
Soissons, and had been to Rome and seen the street where the brothers
lived. He had a nail out of one of the shoes they made for the king.
People came to our house while he was with us, only to see that nail
and hear the story. I heard it so many times that I learned it by
heart."
Old
Simon drove in the last nail with a vicious stroke that sent it well
into the leather. "I'll warrant," he said, "the
blessed Saint Crispin made none o' them shoes we make here, with
pointed toes and rose windows on the leather, fitten for a lady."
He held up the shoe with great disfavor. It was for a courtier, and
the toe was two feet long and turned up, with a chain to fasten it to
the knee. The front of the shoe was cut into open work in a wheel
shape to show the gay silken hose underneath, and the shoe itself was
of soft fine leather. With a parting sniff, Simon tossed it to a
slim, grinning youth who would finish it by putting on gilding.
The
shoe that Crispin was making was of a different sort. It was a little
round-toed sturdy thing, about the right size for a child of ten. The
mate to it was on the bench at his side, and he put them together and
looked at them rather ruefully. The shoe he had made was plain, and
the other was trimmed daintily with red morocco and cut in a quaint
round pattern on the toe the decoration that was known as "a
Paul's window," because the geometric cut-work with the colored
lining looked like stained glass. Crispin frowned and shook his head.
"What's
ailin' ye, lad?" Old Simon peered at the shoes in the boy's
hands. "Bless ye, those ben't mates!"
"I
know that, but I haven't any colored leather for this one even if I
knew how to finish it," Crispin said with a sigh.
"Um-m-m!"
Simon looked more closely at the little gay shoe. "That never
came from these parts. That's Turkey leather." He gave Crispin a
sharp glance. The great bell of Bow was ringing and the apprentices
were quitting work. "Where did this shoe come from, now?"
Crispin
hesitated. "Don't you tell, now, Simon. I found a little maid
crying in Candlewick street standing on one foot like a duck because
she had lost her other shoe. She was so light I could lift her up,
and I set her on a wall while I looked for the shoe, but it wasn't
any good, for a horse had stepped on it. She cried so about the shoe
that I — I — said I would make her another. And then her father
came back for her and took her away."
"Who
might she be?" inquired Simon dryly.
"I
don't know. I didn't tell father. She said she would send for the
shoes though."
Simon
had been rummaging in a leather bag behind his bench. "If she
don't there's plenty of other little wenches that wear shoes. If the
leather should be blue in place o' red, would that matter?"
"I
shouldn't think so; one shoe is no good alone." Crispin began to
be hopeful.
Old
Simon pulled out some pieces of soft fine leather the color of a
harebell and began to cut them quickly and deftly into fine scalloped
borders. "This ben't Turkey leather, but it is a piece from
Spain, and they learnt the trade of the paynim, so I reckon 'twill
do. Stitch this on the other shoe in place o' the red, and I'll cut
the pattern."
Nobody
would have believed that Simon's old, crooked fingers could handle a
knife so cleverly. In no time the pattern on the old shoe had been
copied exactly on the new one. When Crispin had stitched the blue
cut-work border on both, and Simon had rubbed the new leather on some
old scraps and cleaned the old a bit, the two little shoes looked
like twins.
"Is
there a boy here named Crispin Eyre?" inquired a man's voice
from the doorway. Almost at the same time came the sweet lilting
speech of a little girl, "Oh, father, that is the boy who was so
kind to me!"
Crispin
and old Simon stood up and bowed, for the man who spoke was a
dignified person in the furred cloak and cap of a well-to-do
merchant. The little girl held fast to her father's hand and gazed
into the shop with bright interest. "Look at the shoes, father,
aren't they pretty?"
The
merchant balanced the little shoes in his broad hand. "Which did
you lose, Genevieve, child?"
"I
— I don't know, father," the child said, pursing her soft
lips. "Cannot you tell?"
"By
my faith," said the merchant thoughtfully, "if a London
shoemaker's boy does work like this I doubt Edrupt may be right when
he says our ten fingers are as good as any. This shoe is one of a
pair from Cordova. Who's your father, lad?"
"My
father is Thomas Eyre, so please you, master," said the boy
proudly, "and I am Crispin."
"A
good craft and a good name and a good workman," said the
merchant, and dropped a coin into the litter of leather scraps. It
was the full price of a new pair of shoes.
Crispin
certainly could not have dreamed that his kindness to little
Genevieve Gay would be the occasion of new streets in London, but it
happened so. Master Gay, the merchant, came later to talk with Thomas
Eyre about the shoe trade. Then, instead of sending a cargo of Irish
hides abroad he gave Eyre the choice of them. Other shoemakers took
the rest, the shoe trade of London grew, and so did the tanneries.
The tanners presently needed more room by running water, and sought
new quarters outside London Wall. The business of London kept on
growing until the Leatherworkers' Guild had presently to send abroad
for their own raw material. England became more and more a
manufacturing country and less a farming country. In one or another
trade almost every farming product was of use. Hides were made into
leather, beef went to the cook-shops; horn was made into
drinking-cups and lantern-lights, bones were ground or burnt for
various purposes, tallow made candles. What the farmer had been used
to do for himself on his farm, the Guilds began to do in companies,
and their farm was England.
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